This one is about cilantro

In my mind, there is perhaps only one herb that has stood the test of time as the most divisive ingredient: Coriandrum sativum of the family Apiaceae, otherwise known as cilantro. Personally, I find that there is no greater gift of leafy goodness that was delivered unto us than the humble cilantro, but of course, I am biased.

Growing up, my family never really had cilantro in our house or used it in recipes. I would like to think I consumed it several times without noticing whenever my family ate out, but I do come from a part of Oregon that is not exactly what I would call… culturally diverse.

Maybe it was the street tacos with carne asada, marinated in lime juice, orange juice, beer, cumin, and diced jalapenos and garlic; topped with cotija, red onion, tomatoes, and of course, cilantro. Maybe it was the first bowl of phở that I experienced where beef broth, vermicelli noodles, spices, fish sauce, and fresh herbs come together to create a symphony of flavors in a bowl. Cilantro, after all, joins the numerous fresh herbs that can be added as an aromatic garnish to the dish.

Either way, my love of cilantro has stayed with me to this day.

First off, I would like to spend a minute addressing the confusion of the great cilantro versus coriander debate. Here in the U.S., the nomenclature of the plant is sometimes frustrating as the herb can be either called cilantro or coriander. This confusion comes from the fact that the usage of cilantro is relatively new to the culture of eating. It is speculated in the U.S. that the plant is most commonly known as cilantro through introduction into popular culture via Mexico. In Mexican cuisine, the herb is known by its Spanish name, cilantro. In the U.K. however, the plant is often called coriander, which is either derived from the Middle English word coriandre or the French name for the plant of the same spelling (Thomson). All this of course is quite different from the coriander seed, which is a separate ingredient derived from the same plant (i.e. the seeds of Coriandrum sativum) that can be ground up and added to soups or curries. So which is the correct way to refer to the herb? It turns out that either is fine and it really just comes down to through what culture the individual was exposed to the plant.

Although the usage of cilantro in the U.S. is relatively new, it is not the same story in other parts of the world. Mentions of the plant appear in ancient Greek, Egyptian, and Chinese medical texts. Interestingly enough, both the seeds and leaves of the plant were used medicinally. Traces of cilantro seeds have even been found in ancient Egyptian tombs (Vogel). However, the herb is actually native to the Mediterannean and it became popular in Asian and Latin American cuisines when it was spread by both the Romans and the Spanish conquistadors.

Individuals today who find an unpleasant taste associated with cilantro are no different from those who lived before. In fact, throughout history the cilantro aroma “has been compared with the smell of bug-infested bedclothes” (McGee). The Greek word for cilantro, koriannon, is even thought to be derived from the Greek word for bedbug, koris. The association of the herb with insects has also been traced back all the way to the 1600s through French and English literature (around the same time when medieval preparations and dishes were beginning to fall out of favor) (McGee).

Chemists have discovered that cilantro’s specific aroma is caused by aldehydes which are “modified fragments of fat molecules” that are found both in the bodily fluids released by bugs to ward off other organisms and in soaps and lotions (McGee). The reason why many people nowadays associate the smell and taste of cilantro with soap is due to the fact that aldehydes are a byproduct of the soap making process.

So why is this plant so divisive? The answer lies in both our genetics and our ancestor’s evolutionary traits. When people encounter a novel taste or smell, the brain tries to find a familiar scent or taste to relate the new one to. This is an evolutionary byproduct as it was useful for our ancestors to help them identify potential threats in the form of toxins and poisons. Jay Gottfried, a neuroscientist at Northwestern University, who specializes in how the brain perceives smells states: “If the flavor doesn’t fit a familiar food experience, and instead fits into a pattern that involves chemical cleaning agents and dirt, or crawly insects, then the brain highlights the mismatch and the potential threat to our safety. We react strongly and throw the offending ingredient on the floor where it belongs” (McGee). Now, while this process of relating taste and smells to patterns is the same for everybody, people who are offended by cilantro have been shown to have a “variation in the group of olfactory-receptor genes that allows them to strongly perceive the […] aldehydes in cilantro leaves” (Petruzzello). 

Are individuals stuck with this unfortunate aversion to the wonderful herb? In an interview in The New York Times, Dr. Gottfried states that he was able to reprogram his brain into tolerating cilantro by consuming meals that included the herb. Eventually, new patterns developed that associated the taste with pleasure from the other flavors in the dish. He continues, “It can still remind me of soap, but it’s not threatening anymore, so that association fades into the background, and I enjoy its other qualities. On the other hand, if I ate cilantro once and never willingly let it pass my lips again there wouldn’t have been a chance to reshape that perception” (McGee). For those who want to slowly bring cilantro into their diet, Harold McGee recommends crushing the leaves which convert the aldehydes into other substances, helping with the aroma (McGee).

So yes, even though there are genetic variations that cause intense dislike for cilantro, it is not an insurmountable or impossible task to train oneself to enjoy consuming the herb. However, if an individual would rather spend their time posting haikus about how disgusting cilantro is on Facebook pages or purchasing “I hate cilantro” merchandise, then I hope that they find happiness in their life.

McGee, Harold. “Cilantro Haters, It’s Not Your Fault.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 13 Apr. 2010, www.nytimes.com/2010/04/14/dining/14curious.html 

Petruzzello, Melissa. “Why Does Cilantro Taste Like Soap to Some People? Encyclopædia Britannica, Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc, www.britannica.com/story/why-does-cilantro-taste-like-soap-to-some-people.

Thomson, Julie R. “The Difference Between Cilantro And Coriander, Explained. HuffPost, HuffPost, 7 June 2017, www.huffpost.com/entry/cilantro-vs-coriander_n_5936a789e4b013c4816af132.

Vogel, Mark. “Food Articles, News & Features Section.” Cilantro - Food Facts & History Food Reference, 2004, www.foodreference.com/html/art-cilantro.html.